FAQ

Although there are a number of different methods published on how to properly break in a barrel, most gunsmiths and gun manufacturers agree on the following:

• Start by cleaning the barrel (see below), and do NOT oil. We recommend USP Bore Paste, Kroil, Dewey or Pro-Shot Competition Grade Patches , and a Dewey or Pro-Shot Bronze Bore Brush.

• Shoot one non-coated bullet, then clean. If you are reloading, a reduced load is also preferable.

• Repeat shoot/clean process 2 more times. Do not allow your barrel to overheat.

• Shoot 3, then clean. Repeat this process until 20-40 rounds are shot.

• The barrel is now “seasoned”. Clean with following process.

What Procedures do I follow when cleaning my barrel?
• Place a competition-grade patch on a spear-tipped jag, soak with Kroil, push from breach to muzzle.

• Repeat

• Push a clean patch through

• If shooting Moly bullets: impregnate patch with USP Bore Paste, short stroke patch down barrel. (Short Stroke means to go back and forth, back and forth in short strokes as you work your way down the length of the barrel)

• If not shooting Moly bullets: impregnate patch with USP Bore Paste, wrap patch around bronze bore brush and short stroke patch down barrel. (Short Stroke means to go back and forth, back and forth in short strokes as you work your way down the length of the barrel)

• Push 2 wet patches of Kroil down barrel.

• Push 2 dry patches down barrel.

• Repeat if necessary

How can I improve my accuracy?

• Have Your Rifle Accurized - (See the Gunsmithing Section)

• Consider a “Trigger Job” - Almost every factory rifle has a trigger which requires too much tension or “pull” to shoot tight, accurate groups. Have your rifle’s trigger worked on by a competent gunsmith is an inexpensive way to improve your shooting accuracy. Beware, with a light trigger you are more dangerous to yourself and others.

• Shoot Only Coated Bullets - What is a coated bullet? This term refers to a process of placing a lubricant directly on the surface of the bullet. James Calhoon uses Zinc as a coating on his bullets. Berger Bullets offers Molybdenum Disulfate or “Moly” coating on their bullets. We have had excellent experiences using both types. A coated bullet reduces friction in the barrel as the bullet passes through. The barrel stays cleaner longer and will last twice as long. Fouling is reduced by 50% which allows you to shoot twice the number of shots without a significant decrease in accuracy.

• Clean Often - Cleaning your rifle often is important to maintaining the accuracy of your rifle. Many customers have lamented that their rifle shoots better in the morning than the afternoon and the second day is a complete disaster. Cleaning the rifle at lunch will insure accuracy in the afternoon. At the end of the day, clean it again. This will insure your rifle will be accurate the next day or next hunt.

• Do Not Overheat a Barrel - During a hunt, be careful not to overheat your barrel. Test the heat of the barrel by feeling with your hand between shots. More than a few, finding themselves in a “Target Rich Environment”, have neglected to test the temperature of their barrels have regretted it.

• Consider a Rest - “A worst rest is better than the best off-hand shot”. The purchase of a rest or bipod should be at the top of any shooter’s wish list. A bipod is a necessity on a hunt. It is simply impossible to hold steady on a varmint using high power scopes without one. Look for a bipod that fits your hunting style and allows you to shoot easily and quickly on uneven ground. We have found Harris swivel bipods work best in the field. If punching holes in targets is your desire, a bench rest is equally important. Look for a rest which allows find adjustments (both horizontally and vertically).and is heavy enough to add stability when shooting. The Shooter’s Benchrest is a fine choice for the range.

Help! My rifle is not accurate. I need Precision Shooting for Dummys.

Sorry, we don't carry this book. However, Tom Shonk (Swifter) wrote an article on accuracy and reloading for the High Desert Predator Callers that is simple, entertaining, and well written. We are publishing this on our web site with his permission.

Well, I was going to write this on ''Precision Reloading''. Then I thought: Geeze, it'd be a shame for someone to spend all the $$ and effort, when they have a rifle that needs a tune up...So, I thought I'd write on how you'd test your rifle and I thought about the stuff you can really check yourself, and do something about...And every damn one of these is worth a piece by itself...So anyway, you can shoot predators for years with a rifle that will hold its shots into a four -inch circle at 200 yards . That said, if you want all the accuracy it'll do, first you need to find out where you're starting from. You'll need as steady a rest as you can find. A shooting bench is ideal. A sturdy table and sandbags will work. A bipod is, well, OK. The hood of your truck is not.

Make up 20 rounds of a load the rifle has done well with, or a box of its favorite factory ammo. Put a Leupold or other target with at least four aiming points on it at 100 yards. Taking you time, fire four five-shot groups, taking a minute or so between shots for the barrel to cool. Try to concentrate on making each shot the best you can . Take note of any ``flyers``, what shot they occurred on, if you jerked or pulled the shot, anything odd. Measure the groups. My preference is a dial caliper, measure edge to edges at the most widely separated holes, subtract the bullet size from that and you have a workable number. Its not an exact number, but it will work for us. Add the four groups together, and divide by four to get an average. Either subtract the bullet diameter from the average. Don't do both, it'll make you crazy. If you're under about 1.5", you may well be able to shrink groups with some reloading tricks. Stay tuned.

What if its shooting, say, 2.0"? The first thing to check is the scope and mounting, especially if the rifle used to be a lot more accurate. If possible, replace the scope with one that is being used, and you know has no problems. Then check the bedding. Is the barrel free floated? Shim the barrel just ahead of the action to lift it out of any pressure points. If accuracy improves, free -floated and bed it. You might need to clean it thoroughly.

You threw out those jointed five & dime aluminum rods, or gave 'em to somebody you hated when you got the bore guide, one piece rod, pierce jag, and the benchrest brushes, right? Maybe you're a candidate for a factory rifle tune-up package as offered by a bunch of folks. I can recommend Shooter's Oasis for quality, and because they're good guys and honorary members of H.D.P.C.

If it shot into about the proverbial "MOA", though you might benefit from adjusting your seat depth. If you're at a maximum charge level, back off about 5% or so, and shoot some groups with the bullets just touching the rifling. Work deeper into the case by about .005" increments, using five shot groups. Determine the initial setting by neck sizing a case, barely seating a bullet, no primer or powder, and closing the bolt on it, forcing the bullet into the case. This gives "jam length", start at a few thousand less to keep pressure reasonable. Its generally a rule of thumb to seat a least one caliber into the case (.224,.243, etc.) to avoid problems with bullets pulling out.

If you suddenly start with vertical stringing while you're involved in this, try increasing the charge a little, especially if its vertical and narrow. It might suddenly go toward small and round as the vibration cycle changes. Next time, we'll look at brass prep rituals and the tools involved. Basically, things you do to the case neck affect steering on the bullet. Things done on the other end affect ignition. Accuracy is not one trick, but an accumulation, a process. (Damn, don't that sound profound? I musta swiped it!)

Thanks Tom, we look forward to future articles....